ELECTRONIC CANDLE
INSTRUCTION SHEET
This circuit will detect light falling on the Light Dependent Resistor (LDR or CdS). When light falls on the LDR the arrangement of resistors at the base of the transistor T1 gives a change of voltage. This biases or turns on the transistor which turns on T2, allowing sufficient current to flow to light the globe. The arrangement of the resistors at the base of T1 is called a Potential Divider. It is adjusted to suit ambient light conditions by the variable resistor VR1. A typical use would be to set the project up in the refrigerator. The light will light up in another room if you have enough wire, or you could put a buzzer in instead of the light and catch whoever is raiding the refrigerator.
Check Your Kit
Schematic Diagram
PCB Layout
- Check the P.C.Board for damage to the tracks in transit. Continuity of tracks is best checked with an OHMS setting on a multimeter, or with an Electronic Circuit Tester.
- Turn the board copper tracks down and begin to mount the components in the locations shown on the Placement Sheet. The values of the Resistors are determined by the colour bands. The resistors will fit this Board more comfortably if they are mounted vertically to the Board. The Trimpot will fit the holes and position the legs correctly. Remember that the resistance is varied between Centre and one outside leg. The other outside leg is a passenger, but is soldered to improve firmness of the trimpot to the Board.
- Both Transistors are BC548 (or BC547) so they are interchangeable. The drawing shows the way the flat on the body goes.
- The LED is polarised. The flat on the globe goes to the K (neg) side. It won't work the other way round.
- If a buzzer is being fitted, the polarity must be observed - Red wire is Positive (A), Black is Negative (K). A power diode, D2 - IN4002- is fitted to avoid feedback to the circuit from the LED and mainly, the buzzer.
- The battery snap is connected, Red to Positive. A slide switch is included for a power on/off switch. One wire of the battery snap, usually the red one, is cut and the switch soldered in series in the line.
- The Light Dependent Resistor is soldered across the two tracks shown.
- Soldering can be done progressively as components are mounted if you like. Refer Soldering Technique.
TROUBLESHOOTING
- checking each component for correct value, polarity where applicable (LED, Diode IN4002, Transistors, Buzzer).
- Inspect all soldering and resolder any suspect joints, and watch for bridges of solder across tracks which will create short circuits.
- As a party interest piece you can adjust the trimpot so that when you shine a small torch at the LDR the LED will light. If the LED is located away from the torch with two insulated leads, say in the next room, then the LED will light up "on command", provided that the "command" is loud enough for the guy in the next room with the torch to hear and shine his torch on the LDR. Or perhaps you could conceal the LDR under a cloth. Shine the torch at the spot where the LDR is and the LED will glow in another place across the room. MAGIC!
TECHNICAL NOTES
- You will find it interesting to measure the different resistance across the legs of the LDR under varying light flux. A Multimeter set to the OHMS modes will show the enormous changes to resistance across the legs. The Light Dependent Resistor is a Cadmium-di-sulphide Cell as used in photography for light meters and self-adjusting (automatic) exposure cameras.
- The Potential Divider consists of the arrangement of LDR1 on one side, VR1 on the other side and the tapping point between them. The Voltage at the tapping point is varied by the proportion of the values of these two resistors, and the total of the Voltage - Tap to Positive rail + Tap to Negative rail = the total supply Voltage (9V). Both the resistors are variable in this case so a balance can be established to suit a range of light conditions. When the Voltage at the Tap (the Base of Transistor 1) rises, the transistor will switch on. This allows current to flow between C and E legs. The E leg is connected to the Base of Transistor 2, so the voltage turns T2 on. The output of T2 with this setup is very large so a fairly large device could be driven. Transistors in this setup are called a Darlington Pair. The GAIN of each of these transistors is about 100, but with Darlington Configuration the total Gain would be 100 X 100. This means that 1 milliamp at the Base of T1 would result in 10000 milliamps available at C or E of T2. R1, R2, and R3 are protection metering resistors, and R4 meters the current to the LED to approx. 20 milliamps, the specified draw of LEDs.
- Notice that the polarity of the Diode D2 is the reverse to what you would expect, viz. the K band is to the Positive (A) rail. This diode prevents damage to the circuit components that can occur from feedback from buzzers, relays, or other output devices.
- Connect a Voltmeter from the B leg of T1 to Negative rail. Switch the Candle on and slowly increase the light intensity on the LDR (by turning it slowly towards the light). Note the Voltage reading when the LED just lights. This will give the Switching Voltage of the transistors. Check your reading against a Data Table for this transistor (BC 547).
- Check also the different readings +ve rail/ tap and -ve rail / tap. These will be different, but should add together to give Cell Voltage (around 9 Volts).
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